A few weeks ago, Andrea and I went on a two-week holiday to Albania — not exactly the destination I ever imagined would be on my travel bucket list. And yet, it turned out to be one of the most memorable trips we’ve ever taken. Since coming back, I’ve had a lot of people ask about it. Instead of trying to recount the whole thing over coffee or WhatsApp, I thought I’d put it all into a blog post.
First Stop: Tirana – Hot, Dry and Surprisingly Cool
We landed in Tirana to hot, dry weather and took a taxi into the city where we stayed at the Destiny Hotel & Spa. Our first impressions? Incredibly safe, welcoming locals, and a real sense that Albania is just beginning to open up to tourism — with the kind of warm enthusiasm that makes you want to root for them.
That evening, we took a walk to a TripAdvisor-recommended restaurant, Lakror’anë — a rustic and charming Albanian restaurant where we had a delicious traditional meal and a fascinating chat with the young owner who gave us tips for the road trip ahead and some insight into Albania’s turbulent history. His warm hospitality set the tone for what was to be found throughout our trip, locals who are eager to please, and happy to share their knowledge and point of view on their beloved country with its difficult past and thankfully now, brighter future.
The following day we ventured into the main hub of Tirana. Surprisingly modern in architecture, with clean open spaces and squares, interspersed amongst shady tree-lined walkways and trendy cafes and restaurants. A must-do cultural visit, is Bunk’Art, either 1 or 2, both museums are built inside Tirana’s Cold War-era underground bunkers. It was one of the most powerful experiences of the trip — dark, emotional, and deeply informative. The remnants of Albania’s communist past are still very present, and being in those tunnels made it feel hauntingly real.
Road Tripping Begins: Into the Mountains and Onto the Lake
We picked up our rental car and drove three hours east to Pogradec, on the shores of Lake Ohrid near the North Macedonian border. Albanian driving? Let’s say “creative” — but coming from South Africa originally, I wasn’t too fazed.
The drive was spectacular — winding mountain roads, pristine surfaces, and cinematic views. It honestly felt like a Top Gear episode. In Pogradec, we checked into a charming guesthouse called FOIE, swam in the lake, and walked through rose-filled gardens fragrant with jasmine.
We had dinner at a steakhouse called Rosa E Ty Monsur, the meal was excellent and very affordable.
North Macedonia Detour: Bureaucracy & Beauty
We tried to cross into North Macedonia from Pogradec the next morning, but hit a snag, having already been waved through by the Albanian officials — we needed special car insurance to enter, a “Green Card” which prior to setting off, we had unfortunately not heard about. Fortunately, this could be bought on the Albanian border, or so we were told. We drove back the kilometre or so to buy it. Unfortunately, on this particular day, there was no electricity to process this essential piece of paper. So we drove all the way around the lake to the border crossing on the west side. Luckily, approaching that border we found a caravan selling these documents, and then bad luck just further, we found that the queues for this crossing were bumper-to-bumper, and at least an hour’s wait. All in all, the detour and delay cost us about five hours, but the views made up for it.
Eventually, we reached Ohrid (in North Macedonia), navigated the tight, but utterly charming streets to our accommodation set in the old town. We explored the ancient cobblestoned city, with its many picturesque churches and fortress nestled along the lake. Teeming with visitors, the city was beautifully vibrant with quaint shops, galleries, cafes and restaurants. The lake front was set up like the French Riviera, with loungers and umbrellas, and the water was crystal clear and refreshing. Further inland to the lake you can find wine farms and monasteries. We had the sense that Ohrid is a summer destination for Macedonians, and we certainly could understand its popularity.
Back into Albania: Castles, River Swims, and Steep Streets
From Ohrid, we drove to Gjirokastër — an old stone town with steep streets and historical charm. The heat was intense (33°C+), so we stopped for a swim in a river en route — one of those liberating, wild swims that feels like it resets your soul.
Our guesthouse, Guest House Hasko, was tricky to reach (thankful for the SUV!) but well worth it. Amazing views, warm hospitality, and a delicious home-cooked meal. We explored the castle and wandered through the old town, enjoying its untouched, almost naïve charm.
Beach Time in Ksamil: Postcard Perfect
Next stop: Ksamil, our beach base for five nights at Villa Bello. Picture white beaches, clear turquoise water, and beach clubs with good food and cold drinks. You pay to access most beaches, but the experience is worth it — especially for Andrea, who finds her happy place in the sea. A word of warning however, if you don’t like crowds, make sure you don’t get here for peak season, the area has become a hot-spot for tourists looking for the European Maldives.
We visited the Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër), a natural spring with water so clear and cold (around 10°C) it almost doesn’t seem real. We arrived early (8:30 AM — highly recommend it), kayaked on the lake, and had one of the most magical experiences of the trip.
I also managed to get in some hot, hilly runs — new heatmaps for my Strava, of course. (Follow for more 😉).
Greek Island Vibes: Crossing to Corfu
From Ksamil, we caught the ferry to Corfu in Greece, taking the car with us. The countries are so close, but immediately one could sense the Greek island vibe is different, more established if you will.
We stayed at the Mermaid Pool Bar & Studios in the breath-taking area of Palaiokastritsa, a stone’s throw to what would probably be one of my favourite restaurants in the world – the Spiros Taverna. I love a good grill, and they have an outdoor one that does meat to perfection! Another highlight was an Italian fine-dining experience, Il Pozzo set high up in the hills of Palaiokastritsa with a jaw-dropping view over the cliffs and coastline.
The old town of Corfu is quaint, and bustling with tourist shops. The beaches on the island are magnificent, but again, at this time of the year, be prepared for the crowds and the heat. We rented a boat for just the two of us and spent four hours exploring remote beaches, swimming in warm crystal-clear water, and generally living the dream. For Andrea, swimming in these turquoise waters, on secluded beaches made of perfectly smooth white pebbles, under towering cliffs, it’s heaven on earth.
Back to Albania: Berat and One Last Adventure
After Corfu, we returned to Albania and drove to Berat, staying at the Elvish Garden Boutique B&B — beautiful, recently renovated, with vegetables literally growing in the breakfast garden.
We dined that night in a restaurant called Roshniku perched in the hills like a treehouse — made famous by Dutch television and very Instagrammable. The next morning, after a scenic run, I went for a local haircut. I asked for “an inch off the top” — he left me with an inch on the top. Lost in translation, but fun nonetheless.
We explored the Berat Castle and admired the uniform Ottoman-style architecture before driving back toward Tirana. We tried to squeeze in one last beach stop but found the closest beach (Durres) overcrowded and a bit too dirty for our taste. In contrast to what we’d experienced in the south, it felt too touristic.
Our last night was at a hotel near the airport, just a place to sleep before our early flight home.
Final Thoughts: Albania Surprised Us in the Best Way
This trip gave us everything we love — new cultures, honest people, wild swims, great food, and unforgettable scenery. Albania isn’t polished, and that’s what makes it special. It’s not trying to be a copy of Italy or Croatia. It’s raw, warm, a little chaotic, and absolutely worth the adventure.
If you’re thinking about going — do your research, rent a car, be open to the unexpected. And don’t go looking for luxury. Go looking for authenticity.
You’ll find it in abundance.
